Zardozi

JUNE 05, 2020 | INSPIRATION
TABLA by Tania Mohan | Zardozi
Zardozi - derived from the Persian words Zar (gold) and Dozi (sewing) - is a form of elaborate metal embroidery.

 

One of the earliest mentions of Zardozi was in the Rigveda, an ancient collection of hymns said to be composed in 1500-1200 BC. It was only during the 17th century under the patronage of Mughal Emperor Akbar that Zardozi truly reached its pinnacle.

 

Initially the embroidery was crafted using pure silver wires and real gold leaves that were beaten into a fine metal thread. Precious gems like diamonds, emerald and pearls were also sewn into the fabric to make it appear even more exquisite and regal.

 

Zardozi was considered auspicious and represented opulence, power, wealth and importance. The Mughals used Zardozi on the costumes of its royals. Royal tents and trappings of the emperor’s elephants and horses were also heavily embellished with its handwork. Famous Bollywood film Jodhaa Akbar showcases Zardozi in all its regal splendour.

 

However following the Mughal Empire, during Aurangzeb’s reign, the craft ended abruptly.  Royal patronage to artists and craftsmen ceased and ateliers were shut down. The karigars (craftsmen) struggled to survive as the cost of raw materials was high. The advent of industrialisation led further to its decline as many artisans left the trade. 
  

 Zardozi was gradually disappearing until Indian independence took place in 1947. It experienced a resurgence when the government took steps to promote certain crafts including Zardozi embroidery.

Zardozi was gradually disappearing until Indian independence took place in 1947. It experienced a resurgence when the government took steps to promote certain crafts including Zardozi embroidery.

Today its beauty lives on. Pure gold and silver have been replaced with polished copper wire and silk thread. The tools used however remain the same and include the Aari (hooked needle) and Adda (wooden frame).

The process begins by tracing the design on a cloth. The fabric is then stretched and tightened onto the Adda giving it uniform tension to begin the embroidery work. The artisan then starts the  intricate embroidering technique with the Aari which gives Zardozi its distinctive look. The work is so intricate it takes days to complete one piece resulting in not only a beautiful but also very durable product. 

Zardozi has always been an integral part of Tabla’s collections. Tabla launched one of its most iconic Zardozi creations in collaboration with talented Indian designer Monisha Jaising in 2011. It became an international sensation when it was stocked by prestigious retailer Scoop NYC after its owner Stephanie Greenfield spotted one of Tabla’s creations.

Tabla continues to works closely with Indian artisans to keep these time-honoured techniques alive ensuring old school luxury magic.  

Shop the Zardozi Collection